Ciudad Vieja

I love the 121 bus. We have picked it up down the street from our apartment and we're dropped off right in front of beautiful Teatro Solis to watch a show. I can catch it from the Punta Carretas Mall and get dropped off a block away from my Pilates classes. It also is the bus to catch if you want to head to Ciudad Vieja and explore for the day. Which is exactly what we did today.

The first stop was lunch, which I described in Comida Vasca. From there we walked past Plaza Independencia, past Teatro Solis, and headed for Plaza Matriz. Along the way we saw some Candombe drummers, playing spontaneously in the street. Today seemed to be somewhat quiet downtown, but usually a few drummers will start, and walk through the streets and plazas. As they move along, they are joined by other drummers. The group gets louder and larger as they march along. I really like hearing the drummers, and definitely want to experience more before we leave.



We headed to Plaza Matriz because the paper said there was a special artisan fair with performers. Well, it actually turned out to be the same outdoor market they have every Saturday, with antiques, old books, and a few hand made things. We had been to this market before, so we didn't stay too long. ET did eye a Montblanc (overpriced fountain pen) that we were told was an original. Some later research on the internet proved that it was missing a piece. Oh ya, she only wanted 200 U.S. dollars.

Artisanal Mates



After the market, we headed back towards Plaza Independencia. The opening picture on this post is of the last piece of the old wall that formerly surrounded Montevideo. Technically, it seperates Ciudad Vieja from Cuidad Nueva.

Next we headed to Palacio Taranco, an old residence (which looks more like a palace) of a merchant who lived in Montevideo in the early 20th century. Only a few rooms were open, but they were magnificently decorated with antique furniture. I loved the high ceilings, the stained glass and the huge dance hall.





Finally, we headed to Mercado del Puerto, which turned out to be a quick visit. I read in the paper that people have been celebrating there everyday since December 24th and the crowds would continue through the new year. It was true, the place definitely had the stench of beer and .... well, we will leave it at that.



We were victims of a custom I had recently heard about. Apparently, around this time of the year, kids take to filling up water balloons and throwing them at innocent passersby. As we were walking down the street, I eyed three kids on the a balcony getting ready to peg their victim. I thought I was being clever, and I pulled ET along the other side of the road, only to be splashed by another three kids on the balcony of a different building! There happen to be some cops on that street, and they just stood back laughing and assuring us that it was only water. We barely were splashed, so it was humorous.

We walked back away from the Puerto, avoiding the crowded Mercado. The good ol' 121 arrived just as we got to the bus stop.

Fun day in the sun in Ciudad Vieja.