Hello friends and family! Pardon my lack of interesting posts lately, but I have been somewhat busy. Here is a quick update from ET and me.
Today marks the beginning of fall in Uruguay. Last night the time changed, just as it did in the states. However we fall back and the states spring forward. This is good news! There is now only a four hour time difference between Uruguay and California!
On March 8th it rained all day. It left us with a beautiful rainbow that we could see from our apartment.
Each Saturday in Plaza Matriz there is an "antique" market. Sometime ago we spotted a few copper pieces for the kitchen. ET is always eying copper products at William Sonoma back at home. I would look at the price tag and pull him away. But for a FRACTION of the price at the market we picked up a large copper casserole pan. Any tips for cooking with copper?
The seasons are confusing me. Though we are entering fall, it is MARCH. The cool weather reminds me of Thanksgiving, hot chocolate, Christmas, and winter break. But wait, we already had that here. Don't tease me if I come home wearing scarves in June.
ET is doing well. Still working and researching. But he is keeping balanced by taking breaks and hanging out with friends. He started a "guys night out" at a local parilla on Thursdays. Lots of meat, sausage, and beer. I started a similar gathering with the lady-folk. (subtract the meat, sausage, and beer and replace it with coffee, tea, and cake). Lots of fun is had for both parties.
We LOVE jazz music and we often have it playing on our laptop. Last night we saw the Memphis Jazz Band, a local Jazz group here in Montevideo. They played some dixieland, swing, and even some Chopin. The instrumentals were amazing. The singing however...well, let's just say that the instruments are their strong point. They are playing again on the 14th of April at a beautiful venue called La Colmena, Espacio de Arte. It's worth a visit.
Lastly, we love hearing from you! Thank you to everyone who has sent cards, emails, and blog posts. Drop us a line anytime!
11 March 2007
Time Change, Rainbows, and Other Random Things...
08 March 2007
04 March 2007
Fall is Upon Us!!
There has been a notable shift in Montevideo from last week to this week. Streets are crowded, stores are filled, and traffic has increased. School starts this week, and I see many young people with backpacks jumping on the bus to register for classes. I realize how much I missed the movement of the city. Less exciting is the weather change! The first days of March have brought cold, wind, and rain. It seems we are moving rapidly into otoño.
Seasons are always a time of change, and for us this means saying good bye to some good friends who will be heading back home this week. We will miss you two so much!
Last night I had a glimpse of Ciudad Vieja at night. Though it was cold and somewhat rainy, people were out enjoying the nightlife at bars, restaurants, and in the street. Many young people wrapped around the streets in a long line awaiting the night clubs to open at 2:oo am. We chose a quieter night - checking out a new restaurant on Bartolome Mitre, then stopping in at the goodbye party for our friends. I was exhausted by the end of the evening, and slept like a log as the rain poured down against our bedroom window.
26 February 2007
Las Cosas de España en Montevideo
This past Saturday was a gorgeous 75 degrees or so with little humidity. Too nice to stay inside, I called a friend and we headed downtown. Originally, the intent was to get some good coffee and masas at Oro del Rhin, but like so many other businesses downtown, they were closed for the weekend. We opted for ice cream in Plaza Matriz, and stumbled upon a great show. Flamenco dancers, formed by a local Uruguayan dance troupe, had flooded the Plaza.
Having lived in Spain, and having tripped over a few Sevillanas, I can't help but be entranced by the dramatic music, the layers of skirts swirling and turning, the crisp clapping, and of course the dance steps. We put our ice cream craving temporarily on back burner, and instead digested all the sights, sounds, and emotions of the dancers. Between performances, they invited the crowd to get up and dance with them. Annie I needed you there as a partner!
Check this out!
Fortunately for us, our Spanish immersion did not stop there. Still craving a good caffeine buzz, we traced our steps back to El Centro Cultural de España, Montevideo, which we had passed on our way to the Plaza. Our curiosity of the second floor café, which we could see from street, lured us in, and we were extremely content with our find. Stepping into large, air conditioned room, the bottom floor houses the current exposition of the Cultural Center. Though many of the surrounding buildings are still not renovated, this location has been modernly restored. We took the stairs to the second floor. Glancing to the right, I noticed a children´s library, an adult library complete with computers, and a help desk. From above you could see the exhibit with a bird´s eye view.
But we were looking for coffee. To the left of the steps we entered the café, and made our way to a little table on the balcony. Perfect. On the wall next to us a crafty bookshelf stored dozens of Spanish magazines on dance, architecture, design, and politics, giving coffee goers an extra reason to linger. I enjoyed a bit of "people watching" from the small pool of visitors.
I will let the rest of the pictures and the website link do the talking. But as a final note, we enjoyed our café con leche and cortado, and vowed to visit the café again.
-GG
El Centro Cultural de España, Montevideo
Rincón 629
9152250
23 February 2007
La Moda
Last night I met two lovely girls, both named Veronica and both hair stylists here in Montevideo. I am sure I overwhelmed them - as soon as their professions were revealed I started my plea to them to fix my hair.
It's not BAD, but it ain't good either. Uruguayans seem to like a certain style of hair cut for women which leaves long layers on the bottom and lots of hair on the top, cutting right in at the ear line. Yes, I know what you are thinking...MULLET! Or, with shorter hair (ehem, like mine) I like to refer to it as a helmet.
"Can you fix this?" I pleaded as I forced one of the Veronicas to get a sense of my thick hair.
"Yes, yes. We have to thin some of your hair off. "
Yikes that sounds dangerous....
"We have special scissors. We make the volume less."
Ok....I can give that a try. I'll let you all know how it goes...next week.
As for another fashion statement that I can't quite figure out - the tapered sweat pants.
Here is a visual.
Sure it looks good on her. But not all of use can carry this look well. I have a sneaking suspicion that these pantalones derived from Bombachas, which are Gaucho pants worn in the pampas (the plains) of Uruguay and other parts of South America. Who would have thought they would have caught on as "la moda?"
For a look at some fashion trends, hand made clothes, shoes and art, check out the small stretch of 25 de Mayo near the Puerto del Mercado. Local designers are starting to open shops making and selling their creations. I'm an actually on the search for a "modista" or seamstress, so if any locals can recommend one, please pass their number my way.
19 February 2007
Uruguay "The Location for Vacation"
Once I asked an Uruguayo if he made up for "lost time" starting in March once the vacations had come to a close. He laughed at me, and sincerely replied, "Lost time? Vacation? That is the most important time! We would say that working is "lost time!"
I have come to observe that this is a very common mentality. Uruguay is unlike any other country I have visited when it come to enjoying the summer, taking vacation, and getting off work for holidays. Sure the Spaniards and the Italians enjoy their siesta during the year, and usually take a month off in August, but they have nothing on the Uruguayans.
It all starts in December....
First school ends for the year, which brings with it all the end of the year parties and goodbyes.
Then comes Christmas Eve, followed of course by Christmas
NEXT is New Year's Eve and of course New Year's Day
....followed by Three King's Day.
Now we are in January. Everyone is off school (there is no summer school in Montevideo, by the way) many stores close down, and businesses limit their hours. Anyone who can afford to leaves Montevideo for the beach for the month.
So that is where I thought it ended.
I was wrong.
At the end of January Montevideanos start slowly getting back in to their work schedule. February comes around and we are in full swing for "Carnival." Evenings are filled with Tablados, Las Llamadas, and other desfiles.
Then comes the OFFICIAL Carnival week. More parades? More murgas? Nope. Businesses close again, stores limit their hours, and everyone is off to the beach AGAIN from Feb 19th to the 21st, (or to 25th...depending on your means and work limitations.)
Over yet?
No.
We may have not mentioned it until now, but Uruguay is a very secular, non religious country. That does not mean they do not have their own way of recognizing Easter. "Semana del Tursimo" (aka Semana Santa) starts April 2, and makes for another week of vacations.
Whew. That is nearly four months of limited or no work!
There of course are positives and negatives to all of this. For someone who works hard during the whole year, and has a job which will give them paid time off, the months are enjoyed with pleasure. For others who work independently, the months are painfully long, and they must budget to pay their bills from their earnings during the other months of the year.
Among us foreigners I think I can safely say that we have had our share of frustrations with getting things accomplished around this time, getting involved in different activities, or even frequenting our favorite cafes and restaurants. I guess those of us that feel this way have not completely become "Uruguayo." If so, we would all be at Punta del Este right now, rather than writing or reading this blog!!!!
=)
15 February 2007
Ta-da! Introducing...
A new blog by Gaucha Guapa strictly on food in Uruguay. It's called Amargo y Dulce, or Bitter and Sweet in honor of two of Uruguay's most classic "palate pleasers"... Mate-a bitter tea that happens to be green- and Dulce de Leche.
Enjoy the new offering from Gaucha Guapa!
14 February 2007
Happy Valentine's Day!!
We wish everyone a Happy Valentine's Day. Tell someone close to you that you love them, and eat some good chocolate.
Hearts in my favourite plaza in Buenos Aires. Enjoy!!!
12 February 2007
Suprise! We're In Our Second Trimester!!
Gotcha!
No, no ....you will definitely not see any posts about babies on this blog!
However, the analogy is to some extent appropriate. We have decided to stay in Montevideo exactly 9 months, putting us not only in our "second trimester" but also half-way home.
Yippee! Party time June 8th! And if you don't know another reason to celebrate around that date, I suggest you ask E.T. and clear your schedule for the following weekend!
11 February 2007
Las Llamadas Part Two
GG did a fantastic job describing the Llamadas! And to compliment the priceless pictures and scrumptious summary, we thought we would share some video footage of the evening...
The videos speak for themselves...
