The Weather--Simply Unpredictable

Weather forecasting here has a lot to be desired. I check three different websites, daily, to take an “average” of what three independent forecasting systems suggest the day will be like. Most days it’s been harmless; a difference of 5ºC or about 10ºF between them.

I checked last night just after midnight and all three sites agreed there was to be nothing but sunshine. The picture below is essentially the same as it was last night, except for the 9 p.m. rain start time which originally was set for 3 a.m. (By the way, this photo was taken at 2:45 p.m.)


This was the weather forecast at 11:37a.m. 23 December 2006.

At 2pm, we experienced a storm burst with, get this, small hail for about 10 minutes. The sky is still cloudy, but the rain seems to have stopped.

Then again, after a 15 minute lunch, the rain was in full swing with thunder and lightning.

Check out some video footage here…

This is the scene one hour later...

Gladly, we got an early start on the day and were back at Casa Linda while it was still sunny out.

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"Arbol" de Navidad

ET and I decided not to get a Christmas tree this year. A) We couldn't imagine having a winter tree in our house during the summer B) I am not a big fan of fake Christmas trees. (Though, I have to admit I have seen some nice ones)

Well, call it Charlie Brown-style, but we have semi-converted our lovely in door plant to a little Christmas bush. Our two little ornaments are compliments of Tres Tias. Perhaps I'll manage to invent some more over the next few days.

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Selling Santa in the Street

I mentioned that there are frequently vendors in the street selling flowers, washing windows, etc. Today I saw a new sales item...Santa Hats! They are more decorative then what I have seen in the U.S. Many have patterns or stars and some even light up.




I went over and chatted with the vendor and he showed me the different hats and these little toys that bounce up and down and light up. He said he would be working on Christmas Day, hoping that would be the most lucrative for sales.

Just across the street they were selling fireworks...I guess the same laws we have back home really just don't exist here!

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Flores

Not too long ago I mentioned how fragrant the Jazmin is here in Uruguay. When we were in Buenos Aires we saw some gorgeous flowers as well. These pictured above really made an impression on me. They reminded me of orchids, though I have never seen such large orchids with this bright red color. The tree was located in the plaza in front of the "Casa Rosada", where the Argentine president lives.



The last day that ET and I were in BA we took a beautiful long walk through the rose gardens which are located past the barrio of Recoleta. The gardens were very well kept and they had hundreds of varieties. There is also a white bridge with a legend for lovers...or rather, those seeking lovers. I can't remember quite how it went, but something about walking on the bridge forward and back will bring you a match made in heaven! It must work...I had not seen so many people smooching in public since high school!

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The Farthest Traveled Homemade Christmas Bread?

Ever since December 1976, my family has enjoyed the venerable tradition of having Julekagge (pronounced "Yu-le-ka-ga) or Norwegian Christmas Bread, made lovingly by Grandma D. In times past, I am told, the list of recipients was over 100 families and friends long. Gotta love women who like to bake and share. We usually received the bread on visits prior to their retirement to the Far East (Arizona) and since then have been eagerly awaiting the postman's delivery of the foil-wrapped, ziplock sealed bundle of goodness.

As our family has grown, G-ma D. has been making individual breads for her grandchildren and sent them to us, whether we were at home with our parents or away at school. This year, because of our Uruguayan Adventure, and the over 6000 miles between us and the baker's oven, we weren't expecting the delicious delectable.

But after a few curious chats with the Grands, we began to look out for the little guy. Although we have been lucky sending and receiving cards, we (mainly I) still get concerned about items being lost in the mail or stopped by customs for the most spurious of reasons. If it did arrive, it would be the biggest and most delicate package sent to date. Sure enough, he arrived 6 December 2006 after a trip of 10 days and 6250 miles (as the crow flies).

It was consumed in record time, ahem- 2 days. It tastes best in thick slices, toasted, with unabashed amounts of butter. Only after it was a fleeting memory did GG ponder aloud that it would have made a fantastically flavorful French toast. We'll make sure to try that next year.

I must say at first I was surprised that we didn't have to go pick it up at the central mail office; instead it was delivered straight to our door. When we cut through the tape, unzipped the ziplock, and peeled away the aluminum foil, it was the most symbolic image and gesture of the upcoming winter traditions we will be missing. The 85º weather does not equal "it's beginning to look a lot like Christmas."

THANK YOU Grandma D and Grandpa!

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I'm Craving Tamales!

I spoke to my lovely mom the other day and she happened to mention she just placed the order for the Christmas tamales. She ordered the usual, 1/2 dozen meat, 1/2 dozen chicken, and 1/2 dozen chile and cheese. I always liked the sweet ones, which are harder to come by and also vary from tamale maker to tamale maker. Our tradition is to eat them Christmas morning, with a fried egg on the side and plenty of salsa. After there is some sort of sweet to accompany our present opening...hot chocolate, See's chocolate, or homemade Christmas treats.

I have not tried tamales here in Uruguay, and I can not remember if they were on the menu at La Lupita, but I figured I could at least make some homemade four tortillas. ET has made them twice before, and they came out very good. I chopped up a version of salsa, shredded some chicken, and we had ourselves a little Mexican feast.



These jalapeños en escabeche were a labor of love by ET. Jalapeños are hard to find here in Montevideo, and are not spicy. But we did manage to find these a few weeks ago at the Farmer´s Market, and paid a price that would be embarrassing to publish. I am not one for pickled goods, but ET has been enjoying a little Mexican flavor to his dinners.

Cheers to the family and our home cities with so much great Mexican food! Next time you have a Margarita think of us!

Merry (early) Christmas!

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The Rambla

ET and I are lucky to live just about five blocks away from the beach. As I mentioned in an early post, the road and the shore along Montevideo is referred to as The Rambla. I love to go and walk or jog on the sidewalk or along the beach. The weather has been in the high eighties lately, and the beaches are getting more and more crowded each day. Last week there was a huge firework show. The Rambla was PACKED with people.







Locals complain the water is cold, and truth be told I have not felt it yet. There are no waves (or very small ones), and from what I can tell the water level is still very shallow a good distance away from the shore. I have seen many people enjoying doing laps, and others calmly floating in the water. The beach is super clean, which I love, even after the firework display there was minimal trash. The other day I told ET that I am thankful he chose such a beautiful place to work! But don't worry family and friends...I still remember how beautiful home is!!!

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Jazmin

As we are enjoying spring all around us, the local street vendors have started selling jasmine. It is not like the small jasmine I am used to in the U.S., but much larger and just as fragrant. Every busy street corner has someone selling jasmine, and as the summer gets closer the price gets better and better.

Street vendors are common in Montevideo and will usually come right up to your car window. Besides selling flowers, many street corners have people ready to wash your windows as you are waiting at the red light. Some are aggressive and will start washing your window without asking, while others are more polite. On the beach there are venders selling CocaCola, mani (roasted peanuts) and today I saw someone selling necklaces and belts.

You can also find it growing around some people's houses...

but I decided purchase rather then take my chances at getting in trouble for stealing flowers!


Another common thing you will see in the streets are these banners to announce birthdays of people who live in the neighborhood. I am not sure how they are bought, or who puts them up...but it reminds me when I would see helicopters trailing a banner over the beach in the U.S. Perhaps I should have put one up for E.T. last month?

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Speaking of Parrillas...

In the United States most of the construction workers that I see take sandwiches (or maybe leftovers from last night's dinner if they are lucky) in a little white cooler for lunch. Not in Uruguay. Chivitos you say...or maybe empanadas or a torta? Maybe for some. Others just construct a Parrilla on the sidewalk!

I am not sure how they keep their asado cool all day. As I was told, the expression goes..."El fuego mata todo" (The fire kills everything). So I don't think they are too worried. These are some pictures from outside the apartment building on our street. Around 11:30 nearly every morning, I start to smell their lunch cooking!

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La Otra -- Parrilla

La Otra. It's a parrilla here in Montevideo, Uruguay. Tomas Diago 758 esq. J. M. Perez. Phone #711-3006. Lunch from 12m-3p.m; Dinner from 7:30p.m. until closing (usually around 1a.m., later on weekends)

Parrillas, as I have mentioned in another post, are grills. Restaurants here in Uruguay and Argentina are built around grilling beef, chicken, sausages, provolone cheese, vegetables, and roots (potatoes, both regular and sweet). I've been to quite a few parrillas on both sides of the muddy river, including Cabaña Las Lilas. In my humble opinion, La Otra is definitely the best parrilla in Montevideo, if not the entire River Plate region.


Uruguayan parrillas are an experience. To start, there is the lighting of the leña, or wood. The wood is placed into a grate and lit using smaller, thinner sticks (or paper) and matches. The fire begins slowly at first and then begins to roar and crackle. As the wood burns to coals and ash, the mostrador (grill master) begins to put the bigger slabs of meat, like the pulpa, potatoes, and various sausages onto the grill. He then uses a poker to bring the coals under the food filled grates. Most mostradores only add salt for seasoning. The flavor of the meat and veggies comes alive. The meat begins to sizzle and drip; the vegetables cook and blacken; the sausages sweat.

Food cooks more slowly on the parrilla because the wood coals burn at a lower temperature and peter out much more quickly than black coals that you normally find in US stores. Beef at La Otra comes from "carnes de exportación"--raised for export and is usually higher quality than found in other parrillas. Steaks usually take twenty minutes or more depending on the cut.

Meats I have had at La Otra are: Asado (ribs cut across the cage as opposed to down an individual rib in Uruguay), Vacío (a lean cut of beef, flank or tri-tip maybe?), Entrecot (rib meat from between the ribs), Bife de lomo (tenderloin), Picanha (top sirloin); I've also had Morcilla (blood sausage) and Chorizo (a basic sausage). The vegetables are so deliciously prepared, even kids eat them. One of my favorite meals is the Provolone de la Casa--A grilled red bell pepper topped with grilled provolone cheese, onions, tomato, basil and oregano. Mmm, mmm, mm. I'll add pictures of them little by little if I can remember to shoot first, eat later.

All in all, if you're in Montevideo and want the best parrilla, it's La Otra.

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